Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Caped crusader

Well I was going to have a wee rant about ridiculous end of season sales in the first weeks of winter, but I decided to leave that until another day, so I guess this one is more 'Caped' than 'Crusader'

Working on....

I'm not really good at showing you 'in the making' stuff, but I thought I might give you a taste of what goes into developing a new style, since it does take an awful long time.  Bare in mind there is a whole bunch of decision making around designs and themes and how they fit together, fabric and costs and......well we're skipping right to making stuff:

First I cut a draft pattern for this capelet - I wanted the perfect sweep from front to back.  My mother is always going on about keeping your kidney's warm - so this would be good for that, but also I wanted this style to be finely tailored and still show your waist - so your not 'lost' in it and your arms aren't fighting with the fabric to do stuff - like drive and open doors!

Thankfully it took one toile to nail the sillouette I was looking for - so the 'shell'  is complete.  I plan for it to be fully lined with maybe a little hidden pocket, but before I get to that step I'm draping the collar.  

Draping is one method of patternmaking - used in couture more than in main stream, where you create the design in fabric, then reinterprete that shape back into a paper pattern piece, which is then cut in the final fabric and sewn.  

Kinda seems like the long way around, but  its tactile (I'm all about using my hands) and I can immediately see what looks right - in fact I keep myself open to the possibility of improving and developing my design as to what looks good to my eye.  Its such a fluid way of working - I love it!

So I'm using an offcut of twill (the lines in the weave I'm using as guidelines - otherwise I would have drawn regular lines onto the fabric first) and creating the collar by cutting where there is tension in the fabric (up a straight line of course) and layering more fabric underneath to fill the shape in.

On the right is the first stage - slashing and letting the fabric sit flat, then on the left I've filled in and pinned with more fabric  and trimmed the collar back to the final shape

From this toile (mock up) collar I develop an undercollar and top collar in paper, using flat pattern making techniques.....then its lining, interlinings and finally fastenings - for which I have some yummy leather stashed.

I'll give you a like at those next stages if your interested.

Thinking about.....

This has been rolling round in my head since I read it a couple of days ago.  I think I need to print it and stick it on my notice board
We have bigger houses but smaller families;
more conveniences, but less time;
We have more degrees, but less sense;
more knowledge, but less judgement;
more experts, but more problems;
more medicines, but less healthiness;
We've been all the way to the moon and back,
but have trouble crossing the street to meet
the new neighbor.
We build more computers to hold more
information to produce more copies then ever,
but have less communication;
We have become long on quantity,
but short on quality.
These are times of fast foods
but slow digestion;
Tall men but short character;
Steep profits but shallow relationships.
It's a time when there is much in the window,
but nothing in the room.

The 14th Dalai Lama [source]

Listening to...

Linking in with My Creative Space this week.
See ya for Wardrobe Wednesday tomorrow!  
Even if you can't join in I love it when you leave me a comment and let me know you're there.

Happy day to you.
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  1. love the coat and that quote - so true!

  2. Oooh - I LOVE this cape Nin - it's gorgeous!

  3. I have a very limited idea about dressmaking so this is really interesting Nin x

  4. Oh wow , I absolutely love it and would absolutely wear it!!!! GORGEOUS WORK!

  5. stunning cape, and the quote is so very very true

  6. A really great post Nin. I'm loving the cape too.

  7. Y'know, it's funny, but MY mum says the same thing about kidneys!?!

  8. Really interesting. I'd love to see the 'flat pattern making process' you talk about. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

  9. Really interesting. I'd love to see the 'flat pattern making process' you talk about. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

  10. I also would love to know about the process... and the quote is on the money!

  11. Wow it is really gorgeous so far.. Love it :)

  12. Love that song - have a collection of similar ones - great for chilling out :) Cant wait to see the finished products, and that quote has been going round my head for a few weeks too... life eh? have a great weekend :)


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